CRINOLINE

CRINOLINE

Crinoline is a stiff fabric made of horsehair and cotton or linen thread, used for stiffening petticoats or as a lining. It was usually applied to the fashionable silhouette in the 1850s. The stiff fabric was made of horsehair. The petticoat helds out the women’s skirt, and was popular in the mid – 19th Century.

Cage crinoline was a major fashion innovation for women in the 1850s. During the Romantic period women used to wear layers of the petticoat, sometimes they would use upto six layers of the petticoat. The petticoat increased the voluminous of the skirt, and it made it look like a farthingale. The farthingale had changed, its name was called crinoline. And the heavy petticoats which were very hot and unhygienic-particularly in the summer.

HISTORY THE HORSEHAIR CRINOLINE PETTICOAT OF THE 1830s

The crinoline comes from the french word ‘crin’ and ‘lin’, meaning horsehair and linen respectively. ThIS horsehair petticoat name described the fabric at first in 1839. In the 1830s linen, the material was first used for cloth petticoats. This reduced the number of required petticoats. But they were very heavy and uncomfortable.

CAGE OR ARTIFICIAL CRINOLINE OF 1856s

In 1856 the cage crinoline petticoat was introduced. This was a flexible steel framework joined by tapes and having no covering fabric. With this support, ladies had to wear one petticoat to soften the cage ridges. It is mostly worn by most classes of society in at least for Sunday dress.1860

CRINOLINE FULLNESS MOVES TO SKIRT BACK

In the 1860s, the fullness of the very large crinoline was moved to the back of the skirt and tailed behind the wearer. And fullness was reduced at the waist and hips making the skirt smooth over the stomach and the fan-like shaped panels spread out at floor level. This gave the skirt a more pyramid shape. 

DIFFERENT STYLES

Various crinoline styles are listed below.

  • The Duchess Skirt-Draper of 1855
  • The Parisien, Tournure petticoat of 1857
  • The Tavernier Underskirt of 1857
  • The Over-Petticoat of 1860
  • The American Thomson Cage of 1862
  • The Patent Medicis Underskirt of 1865

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