THE JADAU JEWELERY

THE JADAU JEWELERY


Love for gaudy and gold is not new.
The people are looking towards Jadau jewelry that speak tradition, along with fashion sense. One such
possession of any Indian jewelry box is the Jadau jewelry. Brought by the Mughals, it is a beautiful
artistic piece made on an enameled gold frame with embedded gemstones and Minakari work. A tiring
process indeed.
It is one of the oldest technique which does not use any technology and also a reminder of cultural
heritage.


Also known as the Engraved jewelry, the Jadau jewelry is unique and quite an intricate craft.
It is a beautiful artistic piece made on an enameled gold frame with embedded gemstones
along with Minakari work. Are you looking for an A to Z guide about its history, its tedious
work process, the people behind and why it still remains the choice of jewelry lovers- then
this is right the choice?

THE TALK OF THE TOWN – JADAU JEWELRY

A perfect example of rich cultural heritage and intense craftsmanship, the Jadau jewelry
making is a technique wherein precious stones such as uncut diamonds, rubies and emerald
are embedded into gold and enameling done behind the gold, also known as the Minakari
work. This traditionally rich and handcrafted piece, speaks a great deal about the wearer.

THE STORY BEHIND JADAU JEWELRY

Jadau, as its name suggests, is a stone embedded jewellery brought to India by the Mughals.
During the Mughal period, gold bangles, necklace, earrings and bracelets were the most
popularly seen ornaments. Although it was brought by them, the indigenous skills of the
Indian craftsman made it popular. They added contemporary styles to satisfy the young
customers. This art is mostly flourished in the Indian states of Rajasthan and Gujarat. It was
the favourite of the royal families of Rajasthan. The process includes teamwork and expertise
of various artisans. It is done on 22 karats to 24 karat gold.


THE EVOLUTION OF JADAU JEWELRY

STEP 1

The creation

The first step towards creating a fascinating piece is the creation of the influential inspirational
blueprint. They are created by Chiterias- artisans. This is the design that guides the craftsman
throughout the process.


STEP 2

The yellow metal melts
This is the second process of the Jadau jewelry making. In this process, the gold is melted
along with other metals like silver and copper in specified quantities to give a 22k gold. It is
then flattened into small gold strips.


STEP 3

Mounting

It is the making of the gold mount according to the desired shape. The mount is placed on the
base of the same shape and soldered with Plaster of Paris. The mount sections are structured
and separated neatly with precision depending on the design. Such forms use 14 to 22 k gold.

STEP 4

Deep impression

This process is done on a wooden baton with a layer of wax. The gold is then set on the wax
and the designs to be engraved are drawn with a pencil. The engravers use sharp metal tips
to carve beautiful relief structures to create depth for the next process of enameling. These
steps are done by the ghaarias or the karigars.


STEP 5

Enameling- Minakari work

The Minakari work is the art of painting colors to add richness. This is done by fusing glass.
The enamel is painted with the help of a brush and then fired at a high temperature. Multiple
coats of colors are added to create a story. After cooling, it is sent for the embedding process.


STEP 6

Embedding – Jadai

This is the process of studding precious stones to gold. Uncut diamonds, rubies and emeralds
are used for this process. The stones are measured and selected according to the size of the
space into which it is to be inserted. After the process of stone setting, gemstones are foiled
with gold metal to create depth. The kundans are placed around the foil.


STEP 7

Beading

The final step of the Jadau jewelry making is beading. The parts of the jewelry are arranged
together using strings, pearls, and golden beads to enhance the look.


MOTIFS OF JADAU JEWELRY

The Jadau jewelry is mostly done in geometric patterns with floral motifs. On maangtikka’s,
the motifs are mainly of the baroque design like that of the crescent moon. On earrings, the
jhoomar is the most noticed design. Other varieties include the colored enamels and the ones
with micro-pearls.
Finally, a fine piece of art!


OH! TIRESOME

The process of Jadau jewelry making is tiresome and requires utmost patience and finesse.
The duration to create a Jadau jewelry depends on the type and quality of the design created.
The time period may vary from a couple of days to a few months, depending upon the pieces
being small or elaborate.

CURRENT FAV? WHY NOT!

With the fusion of indigenous modern ideas and skills, the process of the Jadau jewelry
making is pure handwork that requires intense care. It has a unique look and can be worn
on auspicious occasions. It is one of the oldest techniques and also a reminder of cultural
heritage.


A DAILY WEAR?

So precious, so delicate, how can it be?
This is your special occasional wear
The products of the Jadau technique are not recommended to wear on a daily basis.

Hats off creators!!


Leave a Reply